COPPER CANYON '97

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by Maryke and Lin Hines

EDITOR’S NOTE: Lin and Maryke Hines are frequent Coyote travelers. They travel all the way from Northern California, where they own Marin Photo. Lin has a bachelor’s degree in business, is president of the Downtown Novato Business Association, and in his 21-year stint with the Marin Photography Club, has been president twice. Maryke earned a master’s degree from the University of Amsterdam in Spanish and proved her worth several times on the trip. They have been 4-wheeling for more than 10 years and look forward to more.

You could sense it right away when we all met in Bisbee, Arizona during dinner at the Brewery. This was going to be a very good group for our November 1997 Copper Canyon trip. We’re "Frisco Flyer," sweep position, in a new 4Runner from Novato, California, with Lin and Maryke; Maryke’s 85-year-old father, Kees; and Jojo, our 85 pound Australian shepherd mix. It’s our second Copper Canyon trip with the Coyote.

Harry signaled our departure at 7 A.M. on Nov. 11 and we were at the border in 15 minutes, but the Banjercito that issues car permits didn’t open until 8! Gladys Schwieren, riding in the Suburban with Harold Peterson, soon got acquainted with the friendly Mexican guard outside the bank. Turns out, he likes gringos and wanted to practice English. Our permit decals were issued and at 8:45, we were rolling through the Chihuahua plains and over the Continental Divide to Nuevo Casas Grandes. It’s a modern center of prosperous agricultural, an apple growing region, and our first night’s destination, the attractive Hacienda Motel.

We explored the town’s namesake, Casas Grandes or Páquime ruins, which flourished 1210-1261. This was an advanced civilization, thought to be connected to the Mogollon people of Arizona. They had homes heated with hot spring water, a reservoir, sewers, central plaza and market, pyramid mound, ball court, multistory adobe apartment buildings and a commerce system extending from Colorado to southern Mexico. With warm late afternoon light and spectacular clouds, Páquime photographed beautifully. A large archaeological museum is open with excellent exhibits and bilingual signs. Then a good dinner at the Bandito, a real wild-west style restaurant, where we were inadvertent birthday party guests with 50 kids, loud music and games for an hour — another experience!

On Saturday, we drove to Creel on an excellent road with beautiful scenery and many old stone walls. Our lunch stop was at the Triangle, where we went rockhounding for large pieces of chalcedony. We continued gaining altitude into the forests as we came into San Juanito, a lumbering town with many ex-railroad employees living in railroad house cars. Cindy and Ken Obenski in Big Mama (one-ton, ’84 Chevy van) returned to San Juanito the next day to explore!

We rolled slowly into Creel on cobblestone streets and arrived at 3:30 p.m. at the Inn at Creel— beautiful log cabin rooms with gas log fireplaces and hot showers! We met Federico and Cristina, the owners of the hotel, and learned that Federico is superintendent of the town’s large lumber mill. Dinner at the hotel was followed by an enthusiastic group of folkloric dancers from the local high school doing folk dances from all over Mexico. They were great!

Sunday morning, we woke up to find frozen windshields— we’re at 7000 feet - but it soon warmed up as we headed for the nearby Tarahumara villages. We entered Ejido San Antonio and visited the Cueva San Sebastian, where Luis, his wife, kids and goats all live inside the cave- friendly people and photographs OK.

A short distance away was a wonderland of geology with the Valley of Frogs, Valley of Chichis (breasts) and Valley of Mushrooms, all areas of rocks fitting the names- even elephants! Our group photo supporting the balancing rock shows our great teamwork and strength! Tarahumara women were making and selling baskets, cedar figures and beads. We also visited Escuela San Antonio and talked to the principal, learning about Tarahumara boarding schools. Then we had lunch on boulders overlooking Lake Arareca with Tarahumara kids and dogs observing. Happily, Jojo got along with the Mexican dogs and didn’t eat any!

After lunch, most of the group headed for Cascada Cusarare and enjoyed a scenic hike along the river to the 100-foot waterfall. The crew of Frisco Flyer and Harold’s ’88 Suburban went to Cusarare Mission and serendipity struck. Sunday Mass was starting— delivered by tape recorder since the priest in Creel only comes monthly. We saw 50 Tarahumara women in very bright colors sitting on the floor of the right side of the church while a lesser number of men were on the left. After Mass, all the women came out, sat on the ground outside and listened silently to a long sermon by three male deacons. Meanwhile, the men were all sitting in a crescent along the back boundary wall of the church property out of sight and listening intently to the weekly town hall meeting where they brought up and solved problems. One of the neat things was a little girl at the mission who came over and hugged Maryke, and later we learned that was because Gladys was busily hugging and talking to the kids— diplomacy in action! Back to Creel, with time to explore the museum and the mission store on the plaza. Our group really liked being together, so we had group dinners most nights rather than going off independently. This night, we were across the street at Caballo Bayo for dinner, but with my usual luck, they had just run out of chile relleños and flan- bummer!

We started Monday with a visit to the Tarahumara elementary boarding school (150 students, 7 teachers) in Basihuare, where we saw the morning student assembly, the school color guard, pledge of allegiance, singing of the Mexican national anthem, plus a speech by the principal. We were very popular once we found some candy and got out the Polaroid camera— the kids loved it and we broke new ground taking pictures of the adults who had not seen a 60 second picture! The discipline, friendliness and colorful dress were wonderful! Then we were off on our first 4WD caper on the road (?) to Tejabán, 15 miles, 1½ hours each way, but when we got there, a beautiful five-star hotel appeared with an incredible view of the "real Copper Canyon," as Edmundo Lujan, the owner, called it. Rock walls, gorgeous marble lobby and dining room, with a million-dollar view, but no paying hotel guests! We had a great lunch, cold beer and Edmundo gave a tour of the hotel rooms We all wanted to stay!

We returned to Creel and Federico took us on a 1½-hour tour of the mill where moldings, louver doors and many other tongue-glued products are produced from low-grade wood. The very modern plant uses microwave veneer dryers and laser-guided equipment, with 220 workers on three shifts. Steam is produced by a 1916 U.S.-built locomotive boiler fed with waste sawdust.

Next morning, we reluctantly left Creel for Divisadero— the primo spot to view the canyon and "reachable only by train"— right! Tejabán is faintly visible 25 miles away, and we saw Tarahumara homesteads down in the canyon, with hawks and vultures flying 1,000 feet below us. Hotel Divisadero Barrancas is terrific, with an incredible view from your balcony! The train station is across the road, but no train. It had apparently derailed outside Creel. Tarahumara basket weavers were friendly and very photogenic.

In the afternoon, most of the group and Jojo took a hike with hotel guide and bellman Rogelio, on trails overlooking the canyon. Super views and the late afternoon sun turned the upper walls golden! Rogelio reappeared at dinner playing guitar and singing Mexican ballads, and later rock and roll. That got Cindy and Ken up dancing, along with a couple of the Mexican ladies at the next table. We obliged Rogelio by accompanying him on bongos and bones, and Al played a mean water glass— a real fiesta!

The next morning, after a beautiful sunrise, we enjoyed our huevos rancheros along with the hotel’s wonderful homemade apple marmalade. Then off on the scenic, bumpy road to Cerocahui— Kees thinks we’re crazy— and a pleasant lunch stop at a 1940s railroad construction camp ghost town. We gassed up in Bahuichivo, then on to Doug Rhode’s Paraiso del Oso hotel— named for the nearby rock pinnacle that looks like Yogi Bear. In Cerocahui, a decorated stage was set up for the next day’s Dia de la Revolucion celebration, plus we visited a great basket store on the plaza across from the old mission church.

Thursday morning’s huevos rancheros and pancakes got us ready to drive to the Cerocahui lookout; we passed though a pine and oak forest with more than 100 oak species, including the biggest. The hand basin oak has leaves over 12 inches across. Higher up, the Urique lookout gave us a preview of the town at the bottom of the canyon. Then we decended the 5,200-foot grade to Urique, a very interesting old mining town with large historic buildings and many men on horseback riding into town for Dia de la Revolucion festivities.

We drove out the Guadalupe road to the river and enjoyed lunch on the rocks. A pedestrian suspension bridge above us intrigued Al Walter (’69 Scout), Cindy and Ken. They climbed up and checked out the other side of the river, and Jojo loved wading. The road took its toll— Harold had two flats and Harry’s Explorer lost its transmission and was heroically towed up the hill by Big Mama. Back at the hotel, Doug put on a great steak barbecue outside by a campfire, with both good food and company.

Friday morning was repair time, getting Harold’s tires repaired in Bahuichivo, and Harry decided to leave his truck at Doug’s to be put on the train to Los Mochis where Harry would come at Christmas and tow it home for repair. During the morning, the "girls" (Gladys, Cindy and Gayle Gladinus, ‘93 Explorer) took a two-hour horseback ride with Doug, while Lin, Maryke and Jojo hiked with guide Rafael to Cueva de las Cruces— a Pancho Villa-era cave where many Tarahumara and mestizo people hid from persecution. Some died and were buried in the cave, with 52 crosses carved in the walls. Rafael told us about Tarahumara medicinal plants used by his grandmother.

We left Cerocahui at 2 p.m. with Harry riding with Al in the Scout and Jenna moving in with Big Mama. We arrived in Témoris at 4:45 and lined up at a large gas tank (that would normally be underground in the U.S.) with a single gas nozzle and filled up. Then an exciting drive up the hill that involved moving two fallen trees— more teamwork —to an overlook revealing two canyons with Yosemite-like buttes at a bend in the river and golden walls from late light. We stayed at a nice new Temoris hotel (sin nombre) and got a warm welcome and a delicious dinner at Gaby’s restaurant.

Saturday morning we were off at 6:30 for the long drive on a fairly rough road to the "rancho." Our first stop was at Palmarejo, a small village with a mission church, school and colorful Jardín de Niños— a kindergarten. All the kids turned out and we fired up the Polaroid again, to their delight. It caused even more baby brothers and sisters to be brought out for pictures, many with Gladys hugging kids!

We pulled into the square in Chinipas, a ranching town with colonial architecture and a large church on the square, which was the site for another group picture aboard an old mining locomotive in front of the high school. When a lot of small kids showed up, Gladys invited them up on the locomotive to pose with the group— what fun and more points scored for the gringos!

After lunch, we became amphibious and crossed the Chinipas River— which was only about 15 inches deep, but very wide. Shortly, we reached Harry’s adopted village of Aqua Caliente, which is on everyone’s favorite list because of the relationship Harry has built up over the years with María, the village matriarch and her family. We unloaded clothes, cooking utensils, toys, candy, balloons and took many more Polaroid pictures of all the kids. Everyone was very cordial and dressed up for our visit. Our communications were a snap with three interpreters— Gayle, Jenna and Maryke. My fantasy is to camp here a night and bring all the makings for a fiesta, including mariachis via car CD!

One more flat and we arrived at Rancho Los Pinos and were welcomed with great hospitality by Eduardo and Oscar, two of the owners. All of the buildings are stone and in the next morning’s mist, it looked like a village of old country French cottages. Again, a super steak and chicken barbecue with lots of beer and wine. We slept upstairs in the big house, sharing the one bathroom, in Harold and Gladys’ room. In the morning, we enjoyed a walk on this former large cattle ranch built by an American in the ‘40s. Al whipped up a great huevos rancheros breakfast for us with lots of help— what a great place, and it cost only $25 per person for steak dinner, drinks, lodging and breakfast!

We left at 9:45 a.m. for Alamos 60 miles away. The roads down the mountains had some rough spots, but a good reality check is that Mexican pickups are seldom 4WD and they make it everywhere!

Lunch stop at Valle de los Animales with rock spires in the shapes of animals, and then we entered Alamos at 4 p.m. We stayed at Casa Encantada, next to the City Hall, with beautiful courtyard gardens and very nice rooms with fireplaces. Hot showers were very popular after our dusty drive, but only if you were early— the hot water quit!

Alamos is a stunningly beautiful 17th-century silver mining town and a national historics Site (no modern facades) with an impressive 1630s cathedral in the central Plaza de Armas. Numerous Americans have restored the beautiful old homes with central courtyards and beautiful gardens, many with bougainvillea cascades. Dinner was across the street at La Mansion Hotel with entertainment by a marvelous troupe of student troubadours, La Estudiantina in old Basque costumes.

On Monday morning, most of our group took a tour with guide Stephanie Meyer to Aduana (outside Alamos) in the old mining district. Lin and Maryke walked around Alamos admiring the architecture, discovering the marketplace and the Panaderia Moderna across the river, still baking in an old beehive oven.

In Minas Nuevas, near Aduana, we stopped to visit the whitewashed mission church and were found by Jose Luis Zuzueta, the teacher from the adjacent Escuela Telesecondaria #295, a junior high school that receives its lessons by satellite dish live from Mexico City. The teacher and his 11 students showed us the one-room school and the math books (tough) for their satellite classes, as well as their English lesson, which rehearsed buying a pair of sneakers in a store— more Polaroids and a promise to try to set up an exchange school in our hometown!

We had a terrific group dinner at La Posada Hotel, the beautiful old Alamos Hospital— with great fish, Mexican combinaciones and yes, chili relleños and flan! Gayle was as excited as Lin!

Well, this was it— the last day in Mexico, Tuesday, Nov. 25th. It was time to drive back on paved roads to the border— a little excitement on the way when Big Mama lost a fan belt, but not to worry; inside of 30 minutes, the roadside parts store/mecánico pulled a new belt out of stock and installed it. We arrived at the Tucson Hojo at 8:30 p.m., had dinner and talked about our great trip and said our good-byes!

I think it’s unanimous in the group that we really enjoyed the trip and the wonderful people, scenery, color and hospitality everywhere we went in Mexico. Most of us liked Alamos the best with Nuevo Casas Grandes and Páquime, Aqua Caliente. Tejabán (and getting there), San Ignacio, right outside Creel, Urique at the bottom of the canyon, and the school at Basihuare being the other major highlights for most of us. I think Gayle in "Kermit," the green Explorer said it best— "the Coyote is cool as a cucumber and inspires great confidence. I’d follow him anywhere." We strongly recommend this trip!

© by Harry Lewellyn

Ecological 4-Wheeling Adventures
P.O. Box 12137
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
voice: (949) 645-7733
fax: (949) 645-7738
email: info@eco4wd.com

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