4X4 Preventive Maintenance
"How to Reduce Breakdowns on the Trail"

by Todd Adams

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Editor's note: Todd is an expert mechanic and avid 4-wheeler. I got to know him on the Elephant Hill 4WD trail which he leads during Easter Jeep Safari in Moab, Utah.

Let’s say you’re out with the family on a back country camping trip. You are driving to a secluded spot that hardly anybody knows about, and the fan belt breaks. What are you going to do now? This would not have happened if you had replaced it at home, but how could you tell it was about to break? This is what learning preventative maintenance is all about. It goes way beyond just an oil change and grease job. If you know what to look for, you can save a lot of grief.

Check List

Let’s start with the basics . A check list is the way the Pros do it, and that is just what you should do. You don’t have to be a mechanic to do simple repairs to your vehicle, but you do need a basic understanding of how things work and what they do on your vehicle so you can spot a problem before it causes a breakdown. Common sense has a lot to do with preventative maintenance. For example, if you see a spot of fluid on the driveway, you would find out where it was coming from and either repair the problem or take it to a mechanic for repairs before it is a real problem. There are other not so obvious things to look at on your vehicle that I will show you.

___ 1. Steering wheel free play

Lets do a P.M.. As you go down your check list, mark down to the side of each step either a check to indicate no problem or make a note of any problems found. Start behind the steering wheel and check for any looseness in the steering system. Looseness in the steering is a gradual thing and you might not be aware of it. If you have power steering make sure the engine is running while you turn the steering wheel from side to side. Watch the front tire as you turn the steering wheel. There should be no more than 2 1/2" of play from side to side before you see the tire move. If there is, there may be a bad joint or the steering gear may need adjusting. In either case it needs to have a more thorough check so repairs can be made.

___ 2. Clutch pedal free travel

If you have a manual transmission you need to check the clutch free travel. As the clutch wears from normal use, the free travel is taken up. If not adjusted, the clutch could become partially disengaged all the time, resulting in premature clutch failure. Some of the newer vehicles have automatic adjusters, so check your owners manual. If the clutch starts to disengage just as you step on the clutch, the linkage should be adjusted to give some free travel. This is the distance from the top of the pedal as you step on it to the point where it starts to disengage the clutch. This distance should be about one inch.

___ 3. Parking brake

On most vehicles, the park brake needs to be adjusted due to normal brake wear. There are two common type of parking brakes used . One uses a separate brake assembly on the output of the transmission. The other uses mechanical linkage to apply the rear brakes, which is the most common on light vehicles. You might have either a small pedal that is applied with your foot or a hand lever. In either case the park brake should be fully set at half the distance the pedal or lever is pulled. The park brake also needs to be fully released when the pedal is. The best place to check the park brake is on a hill so you can make sure that it holds. If you have too much pedal stroke the park brake needs to be adjusted. Check your owners manual for the proper procedure or have a mechanic adjust it for you.

___ 4. Service brakes

Now you need to check your service brakes or main braking system. With the engine running step on the brakes, they should not go more than half way to the floor, although some brake systems will allow the pedal to go almost to the floor with much more force than you would use even during an emergency stop. If there is any doubt have a mechanic check it for you. If it does move too far this could indicate the brakes need adjusting. With all newer vehicles this would indicate a problem since they have automatic brake adjusters. When driving the brakes should not pull or make any noise when stopping.

___ 5. Windshield wipers and washers

Check the windshield wipers and washers. Feel the edge of the blade that contacts the windshield, it should not be hard or rough. Turn on the wipers and the washers. make sure the washers hit the windshield where needed and make adjustments if necessary. The wipers should not streak. Watch the blade edge as it changes direction on the windshield, it should hinge back and forth. If it does not you will have to bend the wiper arm slightly so it does. You should change the blades on an annual basis, this will save you a trip to the parts store on a rainy day. Fill the washer fluid bottle with washer solvent not just water. I also recommend using a product like Rain-X.

___ 6. Radiator

Look in through the grill so you can see the radiator. You might need a flashlight to see well enough. What you are looking for is any obstruction of air flow such as bugs or foreign material sucked up while you were going down the road. Most people clean out their radiator at the car wash. Be very careful if you do this. The high pressure water can bend the fins on the radiator causing a loss of air flow and an overheating problem.

___ 7. Lights

Turn on all the lights including the emergency flashers. You might want a helper to step on the brakes while you check your brake lights. The key may need to be turned on, on some vehicles to do this. Remember to check high and low headlight beams.

___ 8. Tires

Checking the tires is not only a safety issue but it can save you a lot of money as well. Start with tire pressure. Most people have their own opinion as to what tire pressure to run and that is usually to high. The pressure indicated on the side wall of a tire is the maximum pressure at maximum load. If you run this pressure with out a load, you will not only wear the tires out early, you will also degrade the ride quality. There are a lot of variables to tire pressure such as tire size, rim width and vehicle weight. One of the best ways to get the correct pressure is to draw a chalk line across the tread and drive a block or less and see if it wears off evenly at the center or edges. If at the center there is too much pressure and the edges not enough. The minimum highway pressure recommended by most manufacturers is 20 p.s.i.. Your tire pressure should fall somewhere between the maximum pressure and this.

Look at the wear already on your tires. Compare the front tires. If they are wearing either on the outside, or your vehicle pulls to one side, then an alignment is needed. On all four wheel drive vehicles, tire rotation is very important. You should rotate them every 5,000 miles to get maximum wear out of a set of tires. One other thing that greatly affects tire wear is balance. Look for any missing wheel weights. If you have a steering shimmy or other vibrations then have your wheels balanced.

___ 9. Fan

Open the hood so you can check some of the engine compartment mysteries. Grab hold of the fan and try moving it back and forth towards the front and rear of the vehicle. If there is any looseness this could indicate bad water pump bearings and needs further checking. On newer vehicles the fan is plastic so go easy. If you are having overheating problems check the viscous fan hub for any signs of leakage. This is the finned aluminum center of the fan that locks up the fan when the engine heats up. If it loses the silicone oil that is inside, indicated by oily streaks from the hub, the fan will not cool the engine properly.

___ 10. Antifreeze

It is a good idea to buy an antifreeze tester and make sure the engine is protected down to 30 below zero. The antifreeze should be clean and free of rust. When installing antifreeze a 50 / 50 mix with water is recommended. To high a mixture of antifreeze, a condition known as silicate drop out can occur and plug up the radiator. To little antifreeze and the engine is not protected.

___ 11. Hose condition

If your vehicle is over two years old you need to pay close attention to the belts and hoses. Newer silicone hoses last a very long time but you need to make sure that they are not rubbing on anything. This will lead to a blown hose at the worst time. If there is a worn spot on the hoses you can simply bind the hose with a nylon wire tie to eliminate the wear due to vibration. If there is any bulging or soft spots on the upper or lower radiator hoses they need to be replaced. Also if the hoses collapse after the engine cools down this means they are soft and need to be replaced.

___ 12. Belt condition

Look at the belts with a flashlight and turn them over so you can see the inside of the V. If there is any sign of cracking they have to be replaced. There are two types of belts used today. The old V belt and the newer multigrove belt or serpentine belt. As these belts wear they need periodic adjustment. The rule of thumb ( or finger ) for belt tightness without using a tension gauge is to push on the belt in between two pulleys with your finger. You should have about 1\2" of movement pushing hard with one finger. If there is more than that the belt needs to be adjusted. Some of the multigove belts have a tensioner that requires no adjustment. This is a spring loaded arm that runs on the back side of the belt keeping it tight. These can go bad, so if the belt squeals and has a tensioner it needs to be checked further. Something else to look for is a shinny surface on the inside of the V. This could indicate an old belt or some other problem. If you remove a belt that has this condition, turn the pulleys that it drives such as the alternator or smog pump. If they do not turn free or you can hear bearing noise you just might catch a breakdown before it happens.

___ 13. Power steering fluid

Check your power steering fluid. If it is low, make sure to add the right fluid. Check your owners manual as to not cause a system failure by adding the wrong fluid.

___ 14. Automatic transmission fluid

With the engine running and in park with the park brake set check the automatic transmission fluid level. Also check the color and smell. If it is dark and has a burnt odor it needs further examination. You should have the oil and filter changed every 30,000 miles or according to your owners manual.

___ 15. Oil and coolant leaks

Look around and under the engine and transmission area for any sign of leakage. Seepage and minor leaks may not be worth repairing, but at least you will have a good idea as to the problem if it gets worse. If you find a coolant leak, it should be repaired as soon as possible. This not only will save a breakdown but is an environmental issue as well.

___ 16. Battery

Make sure that the top of the battery is clean. A battery can lose its charge if there is dirt between the positive and negative posts. If there is corrosion on the battery posts this needs to be cleaned off. Baking soda is the best thing to break down this corrosion. Mix some with water and brush on with an old paint brush. Then thoroughly flush with water until all the corrosion is gone. You can buy anti corrosion rings or a battery post aerosol to help keep the corrosion from forming. If your battery is one that you can check the electrolyte level in, you need to do so. Bring the level up to the full ring with distilled water. Most of the newer batteries are sealed and have a condition eye. This eye should be either green or blue. If it is black then this indicates a low charge. If the eye is clear or yellow, then the electrolyte is low and the battery needs to be replaced. This may also be a sign that the regulator is over charging the battery.

___ 17. Exhaust system

Look over the exhaust system for any lose bolts, loose mountings or cracks. Cracking around the muffler inlet or outlet is common. If caught in time this could save you from losing part of the exhaust system on a trail. Seeing a muffler on the side of a trail is not uncommon.

___ 18. Differential Fluid
___ 19. Transmission fluid
___ 20. Transfer case fluid

In knowing what to look for, you can check the condition of your transmission and axle gears, by looking at the fluid and not just checking the levels. On the drive axles the fluid is checked at the plug hole half way up on the differential housing or cover plate. The oil level is just to the bottom of the hole. Stick your finger in to get enough on it see if there is any metal flakes in the oil. If there is any metal in the oil, this can cause the bearings to fail and also the seals to leak. If caught early this can save a lot of money as well as a break down. The metal comes from the gears put under heavy load. And since there are no filters on these gear boxes, the only way to get rid of the metal flakes is to change the oil. This is true of the transmission and transfer case as well. The oil should not smell or look burnt. If you add to or change the oils in the differentials, transmission and transfer case, make sure you use the right oil. If you have a limited slip rear end you can damage the friction plates by using regular 90 weight oil. Also be very careful of the oil in the transfer case, some take A.T.F. while others use a heavier oil. If you find that the transfer case is low and the transmission is overfilled, you might have an internal leak.

___ 21. Brakes

From under the vehicle look at the brakes. See if there is any leakage on or around the brakes. This could be from brake fluid or an axle seal. The brake shoes should bee free of any oil contamination. You should lift up the vehicle and remove a wheel just as you would to change a flat. One at a time you should remove a front and a rear wheel. If you have disc brakes look at the pads to see if they need to be replaced due to wear. The pads should have even wear top to bottom and inner and outer should be the same thickness. If they do not there is a problem with the caliper hanging up. On drum brakes it will be necessary to remove a drum as well to see the shoes. If you drive in mud or cross steams it is a good idea to wash out the brakes with water to flush any dirt or sand out. You will be able to see if the axle seals are leaking with the drums off as well.

___ 22. Raise front to check king pins and wheel bearings
___ 23. Raise rear end to check wheel bearings

While you have the front wheels jacked up with the wheels on, grab the top and bottom of the wheel with your hands and try to move the top of the tire in and out. If you see any movement, there may be some wear in the king pins or steering knuckle. This could also be due to loose wheel bearings. Rotate the wheels to check for any noise. On disc brakes there may be some drag because they rely on wheel wobble to move the pad away from the rotor. If you stepped on the brakes when you parked your vehicle the pads will still be tight up against the rotors. You can relieve this by kicking the top and bottom of the tire with your foot. You will now be able to turn the tire freely.

___ 24. Change oil and filter
___ 25. Grease lube points

Now is the time to change the oil and oil filter. Always change the oil and filter at the same time. When you install the new filter make sure that the old filters o-ring came off with the filter and is not stuck to the filter housing. Take a rag and clean off the mating surface of the filter housing and coat the new filter o-ring with clean oil. When installing the new filter follow the tightening instructions on the filter. Check the owners manual for lube points to make sure you grease all the points that need grease.

___ 26. Change fuel filter
___ 27. Change air cleaner

Change the fuel and air cleaners at least once a year. If you drive on dusty roads this may have to be done more often.

___ 28. Mark down service miles in owners manual
___ 29. Make P.M. reminder sticker

You need to keep records of when you do these services. In the owners manual there is usually a place for this. You might also want to use some kind of a reminder sticker on the door jamb as well. Follow your owners manual for mileage intervals as when to change the oil and perform a P.M. when ever you do.

As you get more familiar with your vehicle by doing these P.M.’s, you will learn when something is wrong. This will come in time, so the first time you check something that doesn’t seem right, don’t get too excited about it. Have it checked by someone that knows and that you can trust. You can also call the dealer and talk to a service representative, they are usually willing to help. The more you do the more confident you will become about doing your own maintenance. This will be a big help if you have problems in the back country.

Todd Adams

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